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We have dipped our wheels in the Mediterranean. We are amazed, excited, sad, happy…. yes, very happy.

It’s our last day 😢. It’s actually 26 days cycling. We had such a cold start cycling over 1000m. Then we started to descend deep into the rocky gorges around endless hairpin bends. On and on we cruised and we were freezing! The minute we found sunshine we’d stop and warm up like lizards soaking up the suns rays. Then back into the chasms for another few kilometres. Lycra clad French slogged past us heading uphill, probably sweating from their efforts. Occasionally a waft of warm air would reach us reminding us of our destination, then the cliffs would close in and the cold returned. 30kms on we emerged into the sunshine…. and traffic! So much traffic. It was like another world to us. Finally we reached the glistening Mediterranean. We’d done it. We’d cycled from St Malo to Nice. The feeling is almost bewildering.

We cycled along the Promenade des Anglais for miles. Gosh Nice is busy, with streets and streets of buzzing cafes. As the whole coast is pebbles, it was really difficult to find a place to dip our wheels in the sea and we nearly killed ourselves doing so. We found an extremely steep short ramp and skidded down with our bikes and locals telling us to stop. Some kind Englishman took our photo. The sea looked so inviting and we were desperate to swim, but first things first. We need to sort out trains. So on we cycled to our hotel.

I’ll end at this point as we’ll both write about our reflections of the journey. We’ll add our trains story too. So this blog hasn’t quite finished, but the cycling has. It’s been absolutely wonderful.

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The paradox of ending a trip which finishes in Nice with us dipping the wheels of our bicycle in the Med
What paradox I hear you say ? Well for well over 3 weeks we have had one aim to get to Nice . Now we now we shall be there tomorrow, neither of us want it to end ! We met a lovely couple who were going on to Rome …. Very tempting.
However we are both looking forward to getting home to see family and friends.
So less philosophical banter . Jabron where we stayed was just a hamlet . Breakfast getting increasingly feral with old cheese a bit of left over Tuna and Pasta . One thing that cycling long distances makes you ravenously hungry !
A unexpectedly beautiful ride today through very rural mountainous scenery . a gradual ride from 700 metres up to 1,100 metres. We haven’t come far today anticipating being shattered by yesterdays up down up . Lovely to potter on without any pressure. Lunch by a lake with 2 day old bread and fresh avocado by a lake , quick snoozette sees us at a most palatial house with art everywhere. Our hosts will cook for us tonight . Tomorrow is an Ibis budget in Nice, so tonight will be our swan song so to speak . Our bible France En Velo tells us that when suddenly you are enmeshed with all the businesses of the Côte d’ Azur then after not being in a town since Angers will come as something of a surprise….we shall see

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We absolutely loved Moustiere with its tiny colourful narrow streets, the many pottery shops, the limestone cliffs with eagles circling high above us. What a magical place. We’ll return one day. I want to buy some of those pots!!!

So…… today has been a day we’ve anticipated with vague trepidation since the start. It has a Tour de France category 1 climb to 1200m , then a long descent into the Verdon gorge, then another climb to 1005m. We set off early and soon we were literally cycling really close to the eagles. The views were spectacular. We were both equally determined. Neil didn’t want to stop and I didn’t want to raise my battery power over 2 as I might need more battery help later in the day. Since I was now carrying all our heavy stuff on my already heavy bike, we reckoned battery level 2 cycling uphill for so long was equivalent to cycling an ordinary road bike up. We both made 1200m without any level of exhaustion. At the top we both felt so proud of ourselves. Tour bus groups watched us jumping up and down and hugging each other with excitement. They applauded. This is every day cycling for some, but to us, it felt very special.

The second climb was much harder as the sun was high in the sky and it was 30deg. As with previous climbs on hot days, we took regular shady breaks and again, we celebrated loudly at the top. We’d made it. We’d cycled the hardest day of the trip and we were absolutely fine.

I thought that would be our last climb, but we’ve just been studying the maps this evening and I’ve realised I booked tomorrow night’s accommodation in a ski resort! Oops!

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Every strata the same . Grapefruit and porridge is our favourite. Buy some bread at the Boulangerie and maybe an avocado for butter .
The eager anticipation of the days route makes me want to get on
Leaving Forcalquier is a nice experience as it pretty well downhill for several miles to the Durance river . The hunt for coffee is on which we find in busy Oraison. Market day too , hustle and bustle with vegetables and flowers and also ladies trousers for anorexia! We decide to go off piste up a little valley which was bliss … but also knowing there was a 300 metre climb at the end . Extra lube for all . Ceri waits patiently at the top . Definitely a beer hill which was rectified in Puimoisson . I left most of my energy on the hill and am much relieved that the afternoon is mostly downhill to Moustiers- Ste Marie . Such a beautiful village tucked into a cliff .
No good time to mention this really but French roads for cyclists are so so smooth, makes a big difference
The sign of a successful holiday is I suppose is that you don’t want it to end . This is one

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It was a chilly start. On went our warm layers and gloves as we realised we were cycling from 550m up a gentle climb up through endless lavender fields to over 1000m. Even though the lavender had been cut we could still smell it everywhere. Same with the wild thyme and rosemary. Wouldn’t it be amazing to visit Provence with the lavender in full flower? The whole landscape would be purple. We’re now in the Alpes province and the architecture has become distinctly Provence. We really can’t believe we’re actually in the south of France.

Decisions!

We are getting really excited about nearing Nice. And rather sad to finish. so now we have the logistics to get back to Portsmouth with nothing booked. All the Nice to St Malo fast trains are fully booked or the bike spaces are booked. Neil favours the local TER trains all the way where we don’t have to book the bikes. It’s a bit of a free for all – first come gets the bike space. It also involves changing trains at Marseilles, Lyon and Paris and my bike is fully laden and extremely heavy to change platforms etc. Ive investigated hiring a van to Paris which is affordable, but Neils very keen on the trains. So we’ll go to the station in Nice and see what they say. If we can’t get on various trains, we’ll just have to stay the night wherever we are and try the next day. So we can’t book the ferry yet.

I’m laughing as I type this. I’ve spent hours and hours exploring options- even buses but they don’t take e-bikes. So now I can relax knowing I’ve investigated everything. We’ll simply see what happens at each station and take it from there. It adds to the adventure.

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Sounds like an easy Sunday and indeed it was . I guess I’ve been cycling one way or another for 55 years . Never have I enjoyed a days cycling more . Cold in the morning for a few miles on perfect tarmac . We stop in Viles s’ Auzon. You can sense the presence of Ventoux everywhere. Bike repair shops , expensive bikes everywhere too . People come here with one intent to climb Ventoux. It dominates the skyline everywhere you look . Lots of MAMOLS everywhere ( Middle Aged Men On Lycra). As a subsidiary climb the Gorges de La Nesque is just wonderful. Why so , well it’s gradient is sublime gradually increasing by 400 metres over many miles . The kilometres tick by in effortless cycling , an addition of Lube makes it perfect. Lots of other people doing it too . We play tag with a group from Savoie …they stop we carry on etc we stop they come through . Lots of craic about the Rugby . The only annoying part is the procession of motorbikes too . Still it’s the most enjoyable pass I have ever been up . Probably the worst was Hard Knott pass aged 16 with a 5 speed bike !

Soon we arrive in the beautiful village of Sault with drop dead gorgeous views like Tuscany . Lavender is everywhere although now harvested . I’m sure both Ceri and I could easily climb Ventoux as we are both exceptionally fit . Somehow it detracts from the journey so we shall carry on regardless. Nice is definitely on the Menu now …wow and more wow

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What days of contrasts we’re enjoying. Yesterday morning was absolutely spectacular as we cycled high up through the Ardèche gorge. Then the afternoon was simply a long slog to Caderousse along busy roads where cars were more concerned about getting home fast than worrying about us cyclists. We’d decided to cycle further than the book suggested, hence the 50 mile day, and were both exhausted on arrival, yet satisfied with our progress.

But what a difference a nights rest makes. We were both up and running from the start. The sun shone brightly as we left the plane trees lined streets of the walled Caderousse, picking up fruit from a tiny market and bread from the bakery. We immediately discovered a perfect cycle route along the Loire towards Chateauneuf-du-Pape. It made us almost celebrate yesterday afternoon’s slog which gave us this stunning start. Chateauneuf-du-Pape was Mum’s favourite wine. She died during my final year of university. She was such a good laugh and an intelligent, adventurous lady of her time. Cycling through these vineyards made me feel like she’s been with me all day, even after all these years. I don’t drink any more, but today I made an exception in her memory. Neil and I enjoyed the most delicious glass of Chateauneuf du pape in the town square …. at 10.30 am! Both of us ended up really chatty as we celebrated passing the 800 mile mark and cycled merrily away through glorious undulating vineyards. I know Mum would approve.

◦ After lunch the wind had really picked up almost blowing us off our bicycles. The skies were vivid blue and the views to Mt Ventoux crystal clear, but the Mistral blew constantly from the north with us cycling east. Yet it was only 30 miles so we took our time cycling leisurely and arrived in Mormoiron with plenty of time to chill before finding a restaurant.

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Sometimes it’s best not to know what’s in store .Today was a case in point . We had almost dried out from yesterdays deluge . Excited to see the only natural arch across a river in the world. We felt so lucky to be there early, clouds and mist skirting around the limestone cliffs . Huge car parks that would be used later . Around a corner to my surprise a huge hill . It just went on and on an on to the top of the cliffs . We meet a lovely group of elderly French cyclists like ourselves. Lots of hand shaking at the top and cries of Vive Angleterre and vive La France 🇫🇷. Some had electrical assistance but some not . None had “ poids lordes “ as Ceri and I did ! The views were spectacular and we had an early lunch looking down to minuscule canoes 1000 ft below . Lots of viewpoints which meant the road kept going down and up . I’m glad we are doing the ride this way !

Finally it is done and we look around a beautiful village of Aigueze. Flat riding to eventually cross the Rhone reputedly where Hannibal crossed with his Elephants in 218 . I shall need a quiet day tmw ! Caderousse is like Lucca walled in … to prevent flooding. I’m writing this with a G and T in hand to help my poor knees

Neil thought today would be flat since we were following the river on the map. We ended up 1000 feet up (300 surprise metres!). He was unstoppable. Simply amazing.

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To me, this has been the most thrilling and exciting cycling day of the trip, possibly of all our trips, so Neil asked me to write today’s blog as I’m still bouncing around with enthusiasm. He reckons this could be because I found yesterday tough, … maybe so, but the cycling and the views have been absolutely spectacular.

We chose not to follow the book, but left Villefort on the D51 which turned out to be a dramatic deep gorge. The road twisted its way along a contour, across beautiful old arched stone bridges, passing a huge hydroelectric plant and through an 1800s derelict mining town. We came across mile upon mile of sweet chestnut trees which had been the locals’ staple food in past centuries. Neil was very understanding of my ‘WOW’ at pretty much every single turn, and my constant stopping to take photos or videos. After endless bends, the road finally reached Les Vans which was a pretty little town. The rain kindly stopped to give us just enough time to eat our picnic in the town square. Even with the gentle rain, the temperature was rising. The alpine features had given way to oaks then fig and apple trees. Down we descended through such pretty scenery until we reached the Ardeche. Suddenly the land was flat and smothered in vineyards. Such a contrast to most of our day. Admittedly, the heavens did open quite a few times, but even that was fun as we dived for cover into barns or coffee shops. We successfully avoided some cloudbursts but not all, and we arrived soaking wet. So here we are in Vallons Pont d’Arc , chilling out with our possessions spread all over our kind landlady’s garden, hopefully drying.

By the way, did you know that the Mediterranean dried up millions of years ago? The straits of Gibraltar closed and the Med evaporated, so the Rhone and the Ardeche carved out deep canyons as the water ran down into the empty space. We’ll be cycling in these dramatic canyons tomorrow. AND …… the forecast for the next few days is SUNSHINE. WOOHOO!!!

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Brrrrr! I was so cold this morning I had to wear a coat and gloves as we cycled up to the Col Des Tribes at 1132m. I found it tough as I just couldn’t warm up so resorted to using more battery than usual. I was tired after yesterday. Neil cycled steadily up. On the way, we stopped for a coffee in a place with an electric charger stand for e-bikes! Free! So I topped up and arrived at our destination with almost a full battery. As we crossed over the continental divide, it warmed up and we had a delicious picnic overlooking the valley. Usually people fly down the 35km descent the other side, but there was such a strong headwind we still had to peddle a little. Villefort is a small, pretty mountain village with few tourists. We relaxed in our warm and cosy B&B enjoying a home cooked supper. Ahhhhh.

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