September 1st: Kloster Obermarchtal to Ulm

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Neil: I love trying to speak languages . I find German incomprehensible. Spanish, French , Italian I can have a go . German stumps me . There’s not much point in going to read various probably fascinating dioramas that we pass on bicycles. There is never an English equivalent. In fact there are nobody else here but Germans . That’s fine but I’m travelling a bit in a bubble !
90% of bikes we pass are electric and a lot of cyclists our age . We cycled today with a lady unintentionally as we were about to take the wrong turning . It’s very easy to find your way as signage is so good !
Anyway we managed to take a wrong sign up a hill . Rather than go downhill we cobbled together a detour through pleasant farm land high up with great views.
My German lady now left us as she was meeting her boyfriend. Ceri had a long talk with Cara her daughter as we rolled along and I ended up talking French with this lady as my German was terrible and her English pretty bad . We did an extra 10k today up a side valley and had a beautiful picnic . A snooze after this and an hour later in Ulm . The Danube now looks like a real river as tributaries feed in . Yesterday was a monastery tonight is a 14th century wobbly hotel . I will need to leave off the ‘ sauce’ tonight otherwise I’ll fall over !!

Monastery breakfast: They knew he was coming!
Watching the stork as we cycled away
These guys were setting up abseiling or something
A carpenter’s bike
Thousands and thousands of solar panels – we took a wrong turn and ended up in an industrial estate 🤣
We took a deliberate detour to see this beautiful village of Blaubeuren with its old houses and blue water. It was full of construction but never mind.
Picnic time
This is our 15th century accommodation: Schiefes Haus (crooked house) in Ulm.
Uphill to the bathroom
I must confess I asked Neil to climb back in for the photo and he came out of the shower bent over 🤣
I chose the bath, but still clambered in and out. It amazes me how the architect was able to turn this into a hotel.
I cut and pasted the following description…. (obviously). We’re staying on the very top floor which is quirky and fun, but we’ve decided 1 night is plenty to satisfy our curiosity.

The Scheifes Haus dates back 1406. In 1443, a fundamental extension of the house in the late Gothic style was completed. Initially it had measured only half its current length, but the extension enlarged it to the current size and towards the creek Blau. The north wall of the house stood on steady gravel. The south wall, however, was founded on much less firm ground. As the foundation of this house side slowly gave way, the fundament moved with it and the house sunk into a tilted shape. To save it from eventually “swimming apart”, the house was first supported by three additional pillars, before the wooden south wall was replaced by a stone wall in the mid 17th century.

In around 1800, also the wooden north wall was replaced by a stone wall. At the end of the 19th century, the wooden pillars on the south side were given concrete fundaments. Despite all efforts, however, the house continued to tilt and turn on the south side – due to moisture issues in the roof and the cross beams, and the extreme weight of the first floor that had been filled up to counterbalance the tilt.

Thanks to the prominent first floor of the building that was secured by wooden props, it was possible to add a gallery for the tying up of wooden boxes and the mooring of riverboats. Today, the historic landing has become a “swimming” gallery on the Blau. The glass floor allows a direct view of the fundament of the former fish basin.

In the course of the restoration and renovation works in 1994/95, the house’s fundament was again reinforced, the original bearing structure reconstructed and the entire roof- and ceiling structure stabilized. Additionally, all weight was moved to the north side – as far as possible – and secured. The wood paintings on the cross beams on the first floor were restored and the vaulted ceiling reconstructed. 

Today’s condition of the “Schiefes Haus” brings across the history of the building, thanks to both the retention of the tilted floors and the minimized visibility of modern technology, while it offers all the modern comfort and amenities to our guests.

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August 31st: Simaringen to Obermarchtal

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Ceri: Today was fun and thankfully uneventful. We cycled through a dramatic gorge with cliffs rising high above us, then across open farm land with storks digging for worms in the fields or nesting high in chimneys or on tall posts etc. Tonight we are staying in a monastery and it’s wonderful!

Leaving Simaringen
Picnic in a football ground!
Approaching the monastery in Obermarchtal
This is such an unusual place to stay. We can almost feel the presence of the monks and nuns who lived here long before it became a college offering accommodation. Marie Antoinette stayed here on her way to Paris.

E-bike comments:-

You still have to peddle! The battery only ‘assists’ cycling so if you stop peddling, the bike stops. 

Because I still try to get fit cycling , I rarely use the higher assistance levels so this makes the battery last longer. I have 4 levels of assistance.

Today I used 30% of my battery to cycle 35 fairly flat miles, so in theory I could cycle over 100 miles on the flat. 

Every night I take the battery into our hotel room to charge. I start the day on a full battery and end with plenty to spare which I could use up if I’m exhausted. 

Electric bikes are very heavy, and a loaded bike is extremely heavy. Because Neil is on a light racing bike, I carry most of our stuff:- picnic equipment, food, bike tools, electronics and of course my own clothes and rain gear. This means it uses more battery per mile than regular daily use. Being so heavy, it is still a real challenge cycling up a steep hill, but it’s also really hard to push, so I generally cycle up and recover at the top.

I’d absolutely recommend e-bikes. It means I can keep up with Neil over longer distances . My assist cuts out after 16mph, so when he cycles 17 mph or more , I have to peddle like crazy on an extremely heavy bike to keep up. But then on the hills, I generally wait for Neil to catch me up at the top.

Thanks to my electric bike we can still enjoy long distance cycle touring which we both love.

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August 30th: Tuttlingen to Simaringen

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Neil: It’s a game of two halves said Brian Clough
Ask any cyclist what constitutes a good days cycling. Most will come up with
• Fair weather slight following wind
• God road surface
• Not too hilly
• Great views
• Plenty of energy in the legs
• Quiet roads
Today was such a day , Road like a carpet, stunning views and dappled sunshine
Then after 30 km or so after a coffee break
Kaboom the puncture from hell . Spare tire even had a puncture in
Ceri’s back wheel really difficult to sort with gear mech integral too it
Even taking tire to the Danube didn’t work as three separate punctures . Finally get it fixed . Put bike together. Set off , kaboom another flat . Nothing to do then but walk 4km in the heat to train station. Me very grumpy. Then we meet an angel called Heinz ! His small wooden advert draws us in on a Sunday afternoon. He is open . He provides us with a new Schalbe tire and inner tube . He does this with a pair of glasses with an arm broken off . He uses Ceris glasses instead . He has a lovely Vizsla dog too !
We are now able to cycle on with no train . All in all a 3 hour delay. We finally finish a 40 mile bike ride happy but exhausted. Such a hero he was . We buy two more spares just in case .

Loving their covered bridges
We thought it was all downhill but there are some lumpy bits thrown in.

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August 29th: Donaueschingen to Tuttlingen

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Ceri: What an extraordinary day. 

We were both excited to finally start cycling. The sun was shining and the cycle route was easy and smooth. Germany is so organised! Instead of a cigarette machine on the roadside, we came across an inner tube machine, and later on a bike repair DIY station where everything works! At our first coffee stop, a group of vintage cars pulled up. Neil was in his element exchanging his Morris Minor stories with the VW beetle owners and others. 

Every turn was signposted as we cycled through picturesque farmland and shady forests. Farm barn roofs and houses, new and old, are literally smothered in solar panels. And a bar for a beer is never hard to find. 

After a few miles, the Danube seeps through mud, disappearing underground for 12km then resurfaces back up through the limestone rocks. Quite extraordinary.

We managed to reach our hotel in time to watch Neil’s cousin Jean’s funeral which was live streamed from her church in Gorey, Ireland. We must have looked a strange site, both sitting in the hotel lobby solemnly watching my iPhone- but it was a quiet respectful space . Neil’s tears flowed for his wonderful cousin. We were so pleased we got to share the moment . Technology has its advantages. 

This evening we headed out to eat. It was pretty uneventful until it came to paying the bill…. they didn’t accept credit cards…… for heaven’s sake! So hero Neil ran all the way back to the hotel to collect cash, pay, and all was well. It was a Serbian restaurant so who knows what might have happened!!! There’s always the washing up I suppose . 

Inner tube machine
Neil accosting German vintage car enthusiasts
Solar everywhere
Attractive covered wooden bridges
Where has the Danube gone?
The explanation
Saying farewell to cousin Jean ❤️RIP

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28th August: Trains from Paris to Dounaueschingen

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Neil: Leaving Paris in drizzle at 07.00. There is still a sense of excitement as we progress through wet streets. All the cafes are open and cycling here is a dream . Very few big SUV’s as they are taxed heavily. I would have written that their trains are always on time and slick . However our train out of Gare de l’est was nearly an hour late leaving! This was not the only event. An hour into our journey a call was made for a doctor. I have always volunteered. The patient was a young man deeply unconscious GCS 4. Through translations and a chat to ambulance from Reims we get him off the train . Maybe drugs maybe epilepsy, anyway the train staff sensibly did not want to take any risks . No free travel on SNCF sadly but appropriate thanks .Strasbourg then 2 and a half hours late . No matter for us . Our French train onwards ventures into Germany. The only way we know we are in Germany is the signage , a bit like the Irish border with NI.
We arrive in Donaueschingen climbing all the way. We do get some exercise though as our accommodation is up a steep hill . We wonder around and find the bubbling up of the Danube . Quite a trip to get to the start . The river starts here a product of two smaller rivers
Looking forward to starting our ride proper tomorrow

The source of the Danube: a spring bubbles up here
Beer beer beer!

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25th August 2026: Ferry to Le Havre then train to Paris

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We’re off again. This year we are cycling the Danube – 1200km from Donaueschingen, in the Black Forest in S Germany, to Budapest.  

When we returned to Portsmouth from our 2024 France/Spain cycle touring, fitting our bikes loaded with panniers onto UK trains was a real struggle. I vowed never again! This year we drove our bikes to Portsmouth leaving the campervan parked at Morrisons for 6 weeks (JustPark app) , caught the ferry to Le Havre where we spent the night, then train to Paris

Cycling around this beautiful city is easy these days. During Covid, so many people refused to travel on the Metro that the government designated more and more roads and bus lanes to cyclists. 

Yesterday we explored the vast historic Père Lachaise cemetery where Jim Morrison is buried with a million others. 

This morning we cycled along the banks of the Seine to the recently restored cathedral of Notre Dame. Wow! We were stunned by the scale of the devastation created by the fire, and filled with awe at the enormity and beauty of the restoration. We both felt rather emotional as we sat for quite a while simply taking it all in. Neil lit a candle in memory of his dear cousin Jean who passed away the day we left. 

On we cycled to Saint Germain where we sipped aromatic coffees in Cafe de Flore, following in the footsteps of Picasso, Hemingway, Jean-Paul Sartre, Brigitte Bardot, Alain Delon etc etc – although our conversations were not nearly so esoteric! Back on our bikes to enjoy a super informative river cruise, followed by a late lunch in the Musee D’Orsay and then art to our heart’s content. How we love this city. 

Tomorrow we have an early start catching various trains all day to Donaueschingen. Let the cycling commence!!

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Drawings and other stuff

My drawing of Dad working on one of his ceramic wall panels

One of Dad’s panels:-

Marc as a 5 year old

Cara doing hand stands as a baby

I had a bash at making stained glass – its the size of a postcard and rather wonky, but a fun day.

Oil paintings

(I use water mixable oils)

I’ve taken photos of my paintings from wherever I have found them – many on the floor! I’ve either sold of gifted many, so this is just a small display. I think they look much better in real life……hey ho! I love painting and I’ll keep at it, always hoping to improve.