Well, perhaps our adventure isn’t quite over yet. We had to take trains from Budapest to Munich, then on to Paris, then Caen, then ferry to Portsmouth. What could possibly go wrong?
Cycling to Budapest train station was easy and the station itself surprisingly glamorous!
Loading our heavy bikes onto the intercity train was awkward but we coordinated well with the other 3 cyclists, hung all 5 bikes in the only spaces available, and sat down to enjoy the journey.
However, at Vienna, the guard came along and asked to see our tickets. Neil thought he had booked our bikes on all the trains through to Paris, but alas! The website was in German and it appeared he hadn’t. The guard then insisted we get off the train as 2 more bikes were booked on. There was literally no space for us all. After much discussion, as we were unloading our bikes, a guardian angel in charge of first class got involved and she suggested moving 2 passengers with bikes into her first class carriage as they were getting off at the next stop. They were happy to be upgraded to first class and we were safe , at least until the next stop.
As we approached the next station, both of us stared along the platform looking for bikes but there were none! At least we were safe for another section. And so it continued. At our penultimate station, another bike did get on but the new guard kindly let him stack his bike against ours and we all made it to Munich. Phew.
My goodness, the station was absolute mayhem. Munich is in the middle of the Munich beer festival and the station was jam packed with noisy drunken revellers in their lederhosen mixed with bewildered tourists and cyclists . And now we had to buy tickets for our bikes to Paris. We chained up our bikes to visit the ticket office, and rather amusingly, 5 police stood guard over them – so it seemed.
However, the lady at the office gave us the bad news that the bike slots on intercity trains were fully booked for many days to come. We could not possibly catch the train we’d booked. Our only option was to travel on 5 separate regional German trains where bikes don’t need tickets, but there has to be space and it would be at the guards’ discretion on all trains to let us use our existing tickets . Then we’d need to buy new tickets from Strasbourg to Paris. We had a plan.
It was quite a relief to cycle away from the crazy station, and an even bigger relief to discover that Munich has bike paths everywhere! Even in rush hour, we saw children cycling safely behind their parents who had loaded their other children in all kinds of bike contraptions. This is cycle city. It’s fantastic!
A friend of Neil’s had kindly offered us his apartment for 2 nights while he and his wife were away. We cycled to another friend to collect the keys, passing the beautiful Nymphenburg palace , then on to our new haven. We enjoyed a delicious meal out then ‘home’ to relax and recover from quite a challenging day.
Next morning , chilling in our charming city apartment, we sorted out all the tickets to Paris, losing some and buying others, then had a carefree day to enjoy Munich. We opted to stay clear of the busy beer festival, cycling instead to Munich’s huge beautiful peaceful park, enjoying a coffee on the way. Everyone was out and about this warm Sunday morning , many in traditional Bavarian dress on their way to the festival. Bikes were parked everywhere. It really is a cyclists dream.
However, the park wasn’t quite as peaceful as we’d imagined. We followed the music and ended up in part of the beer festival after all. It was such fun, sitting in the warm sun watching the revellers. Neil of course enjoyed a huge stein of beer while I abstained. We’ve had a wonderfully relaxing day, knowing what’s coming tomorrow.
We have to cycle away from our apartment at 5:30am and take 6 different trains to get us to Paris, arriving 21:30 then cycle across Paris to our hotel. Our journey includes 7 different train stations to negotiate with our heavy bikes up and down platforms, lifts, stairs, and never having a guaranteed place for our bikes. Wish us luck!
Stage 1: Monday 28th September. We’re on the train from Munich to Ulm and it’s stopping at every single station. But at least we’re travelling in the right direction.
Train 1: 6:30am. Munich to Ulm: as you see above, we found a great spot for our bikes and were completely relaxed for a few stops, then suddenly everyone got off ! The train was splitting and we needed to be at the other end. We frantically grabbed (almost) all our stuff and charged along the platform pushing our bikes and made it to the front carriage with seconds to spare. And it was packed! So we kind of forced our way on, straddling huge suitcases and pushchairs . But we were on…… however this train kept getting delayed and we started watching the clock. Ulm station would be tight. Often these platform lifts only take one bike at a time, plus people with heavy suitcases, so this added time. But again, we made it.
Train 2: Ulm to Stuttgart: Feeling rather pleased with ourselves about getting to the right platform on time, we discovered the train was cancelled! So up and down lifts we took our bikes to find information who told us there’d be another train to Stuttgart soon on a different platform . Back up and down lifts and caught the train : busy, but there was space for bikes so we were happy, although the connection in Karlsruhe would now be tight.
Train 3: Karlsruhe to Appenweier : Again we made it!! And the lifts at Karlsruhe took 2 bikes so that helped, plus there was plenty of room for bikes on the next train. We were rather enjoying this challenge and we started feeling very optimistic about getting Paris tonight.
Train 4: Appenweier to Strasbourg was a nightmare. We waited in the hot sun, no shade, and when the train arrived it was just 3 carriages all jam packed. We split up to get our bikes through separate entrances and we both forced our way onto train. (Me shouting LET ME IN!!) My bike completely blocked the exit as the driver forced the doors closed, but we were in, jammed up against other passengers and hot. We could see each other above all the heads and waved to each other, laughing. Thank heavens this was just a 30 minute journey and it meant we’d definitely get to Paris tonight.
Strasbourg station: Time to celebrate and relax, enjoying a delicious cup of Earl Grey with over an hour to wait. Finally we could book the ferry tomorrow from Caen to Portsmouth. We’re coming home!
Train 5: We’re now on the train from Strasbourg to Paris and it’s so civilised! The seats are really comfortable and there’s plenty of room for our bikes. We are relaxed and enjoying the journey.
Tonight 10pm we’ll cycle across Paris to our hotel next to Gare de l’Est and tomorrow, train to Caen, cycle to Ouistreham, possibly a swim, then ferry tomorrow Portsmouth. What a journey to remember.
