Ceri: More chateaux!!! We’ve both always wanted to go to Château Chenonceau having seen so many photographs of it. Since it was not on our route, we drove there and then onto the next stop. Gosh it was beautiful, both inside and out. This particular Castle ended up in private hands which is what saved it from being destroyed during the French revolution. We spent all day there exploring the castle, gardens, apothecary and more. Then obviously decided to stay in a beautiful chateau this evening. What a brilliant decision. Thanks Neil. ❤️
Do we camp or stay in this beautiful chateau Noizay?Decision madeWonderful meal, wonderful evening
Ceri: One cannot cycle the Loire without visiting at least one Château, so we made a detour, cycling to Château Chambord. It was hugely impressive displaying its enormous extravagant architecture and expansive gardens. In its centre is a clever double helix staircase inspired by Leonardo da Vinci’s designs. No wonder there was a French revolution. Françoise Ist built this castle to impress his rivals and prove his power, yet only visited 18 times during his lifetime.
During the second world war it became a repository for thousands of masterpieces from the Louvre. Brave curators protected the work from the Nazis who wanted to ship them back to Germany.
The grounds are open to cyclists to explore making it a welcoming place for all ages.
Thousands of house martins swooped around us
A grasshopper keeps me company in the campsite while I wait for Neil to return with the campervan
Ceri: To us, this was the Darién gap! There were no trains between Gien and Beaugency so we had to come up with a different plan. Neil would cycle halfway with me then cycle back to collect the camper van, while I would carry on to Beaugency. What could possibly go wrong? We made an early start due to a large race which had been organised based from the campsite and drove the van to a safe spot to start cycling . Not far along the journey a very kind Frenchman caught us up waving Neil’s phone at us !!! Neil admitted he thought he’d heard something drop but didn’t think much of it. Of all days to lose his phone, we needed our phones to coordinate meeting up later on . Huge thanks to the kind French man. The day was getting hotter as we cycled along the river as far as St Benoit when Neil turned to cycle back to the campsite to collect the van. For me it was another beautiful ride watching the cormorants and seagulls arguing over the river. The day heated up to over 30° and people were enjoying kayaks an along the river. Orleans wasn’t much fun to cycle through as the sign posts were either missing or were misleading. The roads were often wide and difficult to cycle with very busy traffic. Coming out the other side, the signs resumed and the Loire a Velo continued easily. It was a long day but still enjoyable and we reunited successfully at a beautiful campsite on the river.
My photo to Neil. All going well.Neil’s photo to me…. including a swim of course!Sunset from our campsite
Ceri: Gien is famed for its pottery and we really wanted to see the museum so, being in no hurry with no timetable , we decided to stay 2 nights in the campsite. It was a fascinating museum with clear explanations about the whole process of pottery, and full of absolutely beautiful pots dating back many centuries. We had a relaxing day wandering around the town and a pleasant evening back at the campsite.
Ceri: the day starts as we sing “happy birthday” to Neil’s grandson Solomon who is now 10. After an absolutely delicious breakfast we set off.
There are many canals alongside the river Loire at this stage to aid shipping as the river can be so unreliable. We cycled along the tow paths passing beautiful houses and bridges and I even managed to film a beaver swimming along the canal and a heron in flight. It’s been a lovely day.
Meeting the dog in his basketNeil’s clever gear changeOur beaverPont Canal de BriarePicnic across canal from the restaurantApproaching Gien
However, Neil decided to have his statutory crash landing just as we parked outside the campsite in Gien. His wheel clipped the curb and over he went onto the pavement still clipped into the bike. It was a horrible crash to see . In true doctor mode I watched him examine himself and conclude that he had no broken bones. Just bruises and damaged pride. So off he set to the train station to collect the van while I cycled off to a supermarket to stock up with groceries. In the evening we found a pleasant Vietnamese restaurant for a meal.
Ceri: Our plan is to cycle every day to a campsite near a train station. Neil returns by train to our previous stop to collect the campervan then drives to meet me . This is our modus operandi all along the river .
So off we go. It feels good to be back on our bikes again and the cycling was beautiful. But Neil started having problems changing gears. We headed to a bike shop in Sancerre… how useless were they? No magic men to help us this time. Monsieur suggested we get it fixed in Paris!!!! And so we continued with Neil’s legs whizzing round far too quickly, but it was flat and picturesque . As we stopped for our picnic and we met a charming man with his faithful little dog sitting happily in his front pannier.
The weather wasn’t great, so we decided to stay in a hotel where Neil could investigate his bike properly. I found a beautiful place on the river in Cosne Cours sur Loire. As we reached the town, Neil headed off to the train station and I went on to the hotel. My job was to relax and read my book whilst waiting for Neil to catch me up. Not bad!!
Once Neil arrived, the heavens opened. Fortunately he now had the shelter of a garage to thoroughly investigate his bike. He discovered he could set a gear with the turn of an Allen key. Given that the ride is so flat one gear is generally enough for cycling so we decided to continue with the bike as is. If a big hill comes, Neil gets off and uses the Allen key to choose a better gear, then sets it back to the middle gear for cycling along the flat. Let’s hope this works.
With the problem solved, we celebrated with the most delicious meal in a restaurant.
Wrong side of the canal 😂Meeting dog in basketWhat to do?Chatting to CaraFinally, a Sancerre
Ceri: after a very busy period prior to leaving, we decided to chill and wander around Nevers, a pretty mediaeval town with beautiful and unusual stained glass windows in the cathedral . We camped at the side of the river which was embedded by Japanese Knotweed. Having fought this invasive stuff in Devon we know its dangers and sadly we’ve been seeing JKW all along the river banks of the Loire.
Neil: 1st September- Day 1 and 2: Unfinished business. Back in maybe 2013 weeks cycled from Ploudalmezeau to Saumur on the Loire a Velo . As I remember it was April and the weather was mixed as they say ! We always said one day we would finish it off …. Day 1 was easy enough to a little campsite 4 miles north of Newhaven a grass only pitch with views over to the sea. Day 2 should have been an easy crossing and a good drive down to Nevers where we had booked a pitch for the night . The ferry crossing was certainly easy enough and we met two friends as well on the boat Andy and Chris . Google let us astray and gave us the option of the A86 to save 7 minutes through south west Paris . What’s not to like about that. I saw the odd sign about a height restriction but hey this is a motorway. NO ITS REAL. As we approach a tunnel it says in broad daylight’ 2metres restricted. We are 1.95 …but the bikes stick out above ! We clatter through the minor tassels and Ceri shouts STOP STOP We do in the rain with cars whizzing by , nothing for it but to take the bikes off and squeeze them into the car ! Some squeeze it was too , but hey we saved 7 minutes but lost maybe 30 ! Getting to Nevers the start of the Velo was uneventful after that !
Windy campsite near NewhavenFun surprise meeting Chris and Andy on the ferry. (Unused sick bags!)NEIL!!!!! STOP!!!! He unload the bikesBikes squeezed inside Neil ducking under the low roof
Neil: In 814, so the story goes, a Galician shepherd discovered some bones about 20km from Santiago de Compostela. These became the bones of St James and so started the veneration of said bones by pilgrims. Even then it was recognised that whatever the veracity of the find, it would be good for pilgrims to walk to see them . It’s a bit like did Mallory and Irvine climb Everest or Glastonbury Tor and the Isle of Avalon . Maybe there is a need in all of us to make some sort of quest that others do .
Today we knew would be tough . Not far to cycle but wall to wall rain . Ceri’s brakes need new hydraulic fluid in and are very weak . With my 2cm slick tyres I am at some risk of falling. My road bike is not a tourer . Huge lorries continue to whiz past . Fortunately after 6km a motorway appears which takes them all . We are both soaked to the skin . Not all bad as it’s about 20 C . The procession of walkers continue unabated . There is a quickness in their step I detect . By late lunchtime we are in S de C. We have to walk the last half mile with other walkers . a Galician bagpiper plays in an archway . We both admit to being a bit teary. Last year from St Malo to Nice was different, we didn’t expect to get there . This trip was harder and I guess we expected to get there. Tomorrow we will pick up our ‘ Credencial ‘ complete with all our stamps to show we have done it . I will let Ceri round it all off . She is the true hero in this trip for all sorts of reasons which she may expand on . Oh yes how are we getting home ? Not easy … trains go via Madrid buses won’t take electric batteries. We will hire a car with one way drop off to Santander and then ferry to Portsmouth.
Maybe we will cycle the Rhine next year !!
Ceri: The Rhine? Really? I can’t think past my long glorious hot bath in this beautiful Parador. Our wet bags, clothes and shoes are dangling from every hook type object we can find. I’m warm and comfortable and more relaxed than I ever been in a long while.
Those of you who know about an Oesophagectomy will know how difficult and painful the side effects can occasionally be. I rarely suffered last year cycling to Nice, but this year I’ve had the lot and it’s been tough at times.
We’ve still got a long journey home, but a comfortable one.
I’m looking forward to our home comforts, my own cooking, my own bed which raises up when I need it and seeing friends and family. Just before we left my third grandchild was born and I can’t wait to see her again. Neil and I can chat about cycling the Rhine, (or preferably the Danube!) when that travel bug of mine returns.
We’ve had many wonderful days on this trip. I love cycling with Neil in beautiful places and we will continue for many years to come. But now, like me, my bike is tired and refusing to function properly. Time to rest and reflect.
Rain
Keeps my hair dry Stamping our credencia The walkers/cyclists path… really?WE MADE IT !!!!!!Outside our Parador
Ceri: This has been the least enjoyable day of the whole trip (except my sick days). I was heartened when Neil claimed it was the worst cycle ride of his life!! Mostly because we had to cycle along the hard shoulder of an extremely busy road, and this wasn’t even in error! The rain made it really slippery for Neil on his skinny tires and he told me there were sections where he was really scared. One skid and it could all be over. For me, it was just a ‘grin and bear it’ boring ride. Cold, wet, loud and unpleasant.
The walkers kept mostly to paths through the woods then would emerge to cross our busy road in groups, clad in long ponchos with huge humpbacks or backpacks smothered in brightly coloured rainproof covers. Tour buses whizzed past us carrying their main luggage, alongside
the thundering lorries.
Half way along we spotted a loggers track, so followed it to find the perfect log for a picnic away from the noise. Peace!
It was a short ride but still, seeing our lodgings was a relief. And the best part for me was to discover our room and a bath…. WITH A PLUG! Luxury! So that was me settled for the next hour. We’ve plenty of time to kill.
Most of my evenings have been spent finding accommodation for the next day or so. I read all the reviews! But now I’ve booked everything between here and home! There’s nothing to do except write this blog.
Our journey from Santiago de Compostela to Santander proved to be a bigger problem than anticipated. The train was 12 hours, 2 long trips with a 4 hour wait in the middle. The buses won’t accept electric bikes and we found it incredibly difficult to find a car big enough to carry our bikes. On and on I researched. I can tell you the cubic capacity of most SUVs in Spain!! Finally I found a great big Volvo XC60 with a one way drop off which should do the trick.
So now I’m twiddling my thumbs while Neil enjoys his bath.
Getting closer- I’m in yellow!Grain stores found all over GaliciaLunch away from the traffic No more photos today. Too much rain!Pilgrims MassDelicious
Ceri and Neil's blogs (including Ceri's oesophagectomy) 