Day 22: 30 miles (827) to Mormoiron

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What days of contrasts we’re enjoying. Yesterday morning was absolutely spectacular as we cycled high up through the Ardèche gorge. Then the afternoon was simply a long slog to Caderousse along busy roads where cars were more concerned about getting home fast than worrying about us cyclists. We’d decided to cycle further than the book suggested, hence the 50 mile day, and were both exhausted on arrival, yet satisfied with our progress.

But what a difference a nights rest makes. We were both up and running from the start. The sun shone brightly as we left the plane trees lined streets of the walled Caderousse, picking up fruit from a tiny market and bread from the bakery. We immediately discovered a perfect cycle route along the Loire towards Chateauneuf-du-Pape. It made us almost celebrate yesterday afternoon’s slog which gave us this stunning start. Chateauneuf-du-Pape was Mum’s favourite wine. She died during my final year of university. She was such a good laugh and an intelligent, adventurous lady of her time. Cycling through these vineyards made me feel like she’s been with me all day, even after all these years. I don’t drink any more, but today I made an exception in her memory. Neil and I enjoyed the most delicious glass of Chateauneuf du pape in the town square …. at 10.30 am! Both of us ended up really chatty as we celebrated passing the 800 mile mark and cycled merrily away through glorious undulating vineyards. I know Mum would approve.

◦ After lunch the wind had really picked up almost blowing us off our bicycles. The skies were vivid blue and the views to Mt Ventoux crystal clear, but the Mistral blew constantly from the north with us cycling east. Yet it was only 30 miles so we took our time cycling leisurely and arrived in Mormoiron with plenty of time to chill before finding a restaurant.

Grapes wizzing past
Mt Ventoux

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