NEXT

Ceri: Today has been the best day yet. Starting from a beautiful chateau certainly helps. Neil suggested I chose the route today so I led our way through tiny villages avoiding large towns, undulating countryside and vineyards. The sun came out, the rain stayed away and the wind was in our favour. What could be better?

But we did have one mishap. Neil, cycling a distance behind me, called out that he needed water. I turned around and headed back to his parked bike. No sign of Neil… which isn’t unusual. So I sat on a nearby bench and waited for him to appear. But he didn’t. I heard the occasional banging and presumed it was some workmen nearby. And so I waited. After a while I headed back to our bikes to look for him and the banging got louder, followed by a desperate shout “I’M LOCKED IN THE TOILET”. Honestly, you couldn’t write this stuff! I could barely open the door I was laughing so much. I’m still giggling as I write this. It was a stupid system which defies logic. He could enter to toilet but couldn’t unlock it from the inside. Poor chap was stuck there for a good 5 minutes if not more. He keeps reminding me how traumatising it was, but it doesn’t help the giggles. 

Anyway, on we continue in perfect conditions and arrive too early so enjoyed a beer in a cafe while we waited. One of many things I love about Neil is his spontaneity. We had planned on staying in La Rochelle tomorrow night, but suddenly I find myself agreeing to catch a ferry to Ile D’Oleron instead. Minutes later, I’ve booked the ferry and we’re on a new route. This trip is so much fun. 

NEXT

BACK

NEXT

Neil: Every day is the same really cycling, however there are certain landmarks that form part of the way . The Loire is one. Just 16km to get there in good sun . However it looks terrible to the west . The Loire can be crossed at several points near the mouth . St Nazaire looks death defying with huge lorries. Nantes is a big city . So we chose the delightful free ferry to cross. As we cross the heavens open, we just run into a cafe on the other side. All done in 20 mins . The route we have chosen is very rural no tourists or heavy lorries. Lots of the lanes look like Devon . Lunch is down a small lane, avocados nuts and the last of the mini cheddars . No bread as all closed . Why so much detail over lunch I hear you ask ? Well I start to “ bonk “ ….a cycling term for low sugar . I realise as Ceri is some way ahead. Werthers originals and some Cadbury fruit and nut chocolate bar and blood sugar restored! Roads dead straight… next landmark is La Rochelle . Staying tonight in a lovely chateau. A bit like “ Escape to the Chateau “ only it’s all tip top . No other guests and we are promised a lift to a restaurant nearby 

Ceri adds: waiting for the ferry, under blue skies and sunshine , I commented that the skies to the west look black and threatening and it was coming our way. “No no”, says Neil. “It won’t rain. Look at my app”. I did and I had to agree, the app said no rain. “But look at the sky” says I.  “We’re going to get drenched”. Neil persisted. “It’s not going to rain”. Boy did it rain, and there was little shelter on the ferry. We both agreed it was time for a coffee. I’m married to an eternal optimist. 

NEXT

BACK

NEXT

Ceri: So far, the days have felt rather similar to our normal days cycling at home in Devon. Nothing as yet has been particularly extraordinary. We’re happy and relaxed, gently cycling around French rural countryside. We love the small cafes, the coffees, the villages, the churches. But today we have felt rather annoyed with ourselves.  We are completely underestimating how far we can cycle each day when booking the next night’s accommodation. Today we could easily have reached the Loire by mid afternoon, but we couldn’t cancel our accommodation which is an hour’s ride short of the Loire. Ah well. We’ll learn. So we stopped for a long leisurely break and picnic  at Blain along the banks of the Brest-Nantes canal. Can’t complain really!

From the start of this trip the weather has been rather chilly. We’ve been dressed in our warm clothes which never even saw the light of day on our long journey last year. But today at the canal side, the sun finally came out, we discarded our extra layers and embraced its warmth. Sunshine makes such a difference to the day. But alas, it was fairly short lived. In the end, we felt very lucky to have arrived at our destination so early. As we settled in, the heavens opened and rumbled with thunder. 

But the trouble with too much spare time is that Nerdy Neil loves to discover and share every single detail from his new Outdoor Active cycling app: elevation climbed and fallen, distance covered, average this that and the other, and a load more. Arrrgggghhh!!!!!

I have to add that we’ve just returned from a hilarious evening. It’s absolutely pouring here, so we both wore flip flops, rolled up trousers, bike jackets and bike helmets to keep our hair dry… under which Neil wore a head scarf and I wore a clear plastic shower cap purloined from a hotel. We must have looked a sight. I’m amazed the rather posh restaurant we’d found even let us in! The food was absolutely delicious. We even had the cheek to ask them to fill our water bottle with milk so we could have tea with our breakfast. All in all it was a thoroughly successful evening!

NEXT

BACK

NEXT

Neil: This is our second very long trip now . The first few days are agony particularly if there are hills . The legs scream at you to stop or go slower . Gradually though it gets less . So day three feels a lot better . This part of Brittany is just rolling hills and small market towns. Not many pictures. Countryside pretty but not spectacular. In terms of cycling , pretty ideal , no wind and grey sky. Always rain about but none falling on us . Maybe St James taking a hand !

      Over many years cycling I have poured over maps trying to decide which way to go . Mapping software is so sophisticated now that you can specify what sort of route you wish . We took the road bike option today . Lots of traffic to start with but eventually fairly traffic free . Early to bed early to ride . Works well

NEXT

BACK

NEXT

Ceri: It was raining as we left the ferry, and we headed straight for our favourite cafe for coffee and croissants. Last year we hadn’t even noticed the road to the ancient part of St Malo could slide away, allowing for ships to pass. It was fascinating to watch. After our ceremonious coffee, Neil led us to the mini ferry port to take us to Dinard… back over the sliding bridge. We watched and waited again. Once there, we were told the port was back over THAT sliding bridge!!! 😂

The small ferry and soon we were cycling along D roads, old railway tracks converted into cycle routes, through pretty villages and along rivers and canals. The French do cycling so very well. 

From the start, Neil has been determined to get our St Jacques passports stamped. We forgot at St Malo …. must have been that sliding bridge!! So after lunch in the scenic ancient town of Dinan he headed off, passports in hand. Neil returned grinning…. mission accomplished, so on we rode to Becherel. This rural area is full of beautiful old towns and villages with ramparts and Becherel was no different.  We stayed in a 17th century converted weavers house and ate the most delicious meal to celebrate our 7th wedding anniversary. It was very romantic. It really was!

NEXT

BACK

NEXT

Day1: home to Portsmouth by train. (9 miles cycling)

Neil: Nervous excitement just about sums up today . A short journey to Tiverton Parkway, when I realise no hearing aids ! Jonny Nance heroically comes to the rescue delivering them just before the train left. English trains are just terrible with bikes ! Booking doesn’t work , irritated guard gets all shirty about us blocking the way . We have a problem I say as the bikes are too heavy to lift up . Not my problem says she . So we shift them . Next train is heaving . Still, we found a cracking pub in Portsmouth next to the ferry terminal. This marked the end of a fairly routine day. However Ceri fell off the bunk ladder in the middle of the night in our cabin! Fractured neck of femur I think ? But no, all ok.

      Apart from that, we slept really well and arrived at St Malo

NEXT

SKIP TO END