Ceri: Gien is famed for its pottery and we really wanted to see the museum so, being in no hurry with no timetable , we decided to stay 2 nights in the campsite. It was a fascinating museum with clear explanations about the whole process of pottery, and full of absolutely beautiful pots dating back many centuries. We had a relaxing day wandering around the town and a pleasant evening back at the campsite.
Ceri: the day starts as we sing “happy birthday” to Neil’s grandson Solomon who is now 10. After an absolutely delicious breakfast we set off.
There are many canals alongside the river Loire at this stage to aid shipping as the river can be so unreliable. We cycled along the tow paths passing beautiful houses and bridges and I even managed to film a beaver swimming along the canal and a heron in flight. It’s been a lovely day.
However, Neil decided to have his statutory crash landing just as we parked outside the campsite in Gien. His wheel clipped the curb and over he went onto the pavement still clipped into the bike. It was a horrible crash to see . In true doctor mode I watched him examine himself and conclude that he had no broken bones. Just bruises and damaged pride. So off he set to the train station to collect the van while I cycled off to a supermarket to stock up with groceries. In the evening we found a pleasant Vietnamese restaurant for a meal.
Ceri: Our plan is to cycle every day to a campsite near a train station. Neil returns by train to our previous stop to collect the campervan then drives to meet me . This is our modus operandi all along the river .
So off we go. It feels good to be back on our bikes again and the cycling was beautiful. But Neil started having problems changing gears. We headed to a bike shop in Sancerre… how useless were they? No magic men to help us this time. Monsieur suggested we get it fixed in Paris!!!! And so we continued with Neil’s legs whizzing round far too quickly, but it was flat and picturesque . As we stopped for our picnic and we met a charming man with his faithful little dog sitting happily in his front pannier.
The weather wasn’t great, so we decided to stay in a hotel where Neil could investigate his bike properly. I found a beautiful place on the river in Cosne Cours sur Loire. As we reached the town, Neil headed off to the train station and I went on to the hotel. My job was to relax and read my book whilst waiting for Neil to catch me up. Not bad!!
Once Neil arrived, the heavens opened. Fortunately he now had the shelter of a garage to thoroughly investigate his bike. He discovered he could set a gear with the turn of an Allen key. Given that the ride is so flat one gear is generally enough for cycling so we decided to continue with the bike as is. If a big hill comes, Neil gets off and uses the Allen key to choose a better gear, then sets it back to the middle gear for cycling along the flat. Let’s hope this works.
With the problem solved, we celebrated with the most delicious meal in a restaurant.
Ceri: after a very busy period prior to leaving, we decided to chill and wander around Nevers, a pretty mediaeval town with beautiful and unusual stained glass windows in the cathedral . We camped at the side of the river which was embedded by Japanese Knotweed. Having fought this invasive stuff in Devon we know its dangers and sadly we’ve been seeing JKW all along the river banks of the Loire.
Neil: 1st September- Day 1 and 2:
Unfinished business. Back in maybe 2013 weeks cycled from Ploudalmezeau to Saumur on the Loire a Velo . As I remember it was April and the weather was mixed as they say !
We always said one day we would finish it off ….
Day 1 was easy enough to a little campsite 4 miles north of Newhaven a grass only pitch with views over to the sea.
Day 2 should have been an easy crossing and a good drive down to Nevers where we had booked a pitch for the night . The ferry crossing was certainly easy enough and we met two friends as well on the boat Andy and Chris .
Google let us astray and gave us the option of the A86 to save 7 minutes through south west Paris . What’s not to like about that. I saw the odd sign about a height restriction but hey this is a motorway.
NO ITS REAL. As we approach a tunnel it says in broad daylight’ 2metres restricted. We are 1.95 …but the bikes stick out above ! We clatter through the minor tassels and Ceri shouts STOP STOP
We do in the rain with cars whizzing by , nothing for it but to take the bikes off and squeeze them into the car !
Some squeeze it was too , but hey we saved 7 minutes but lost maybe 30 !
Getting to Nevers the start of the Velo was uneventful after that !
Neil: In 814, so the story goes, a Galician shepherd discovered some bones about 20km from Santiago de Compostela. These became the bones of St James and so started the veneration of said bones by pilgrims. Even then it was recognised that whatever the veracity of the find, it would be good for pilgrims to walk to see them . It’s a bit like did Mallory and Irvine climb Everest or Glastonbury Tor and the Isle of Avalon . Maybe there is a need in all of us to make some sort of quest that others do .
Today we knew would be tough . Not far to cycle but wall to wall rain . Ceri’s brakes need new hydraulic fluid in and are very weak . With my 2cm slick tyres I am at some risk of falling. My road bike is not a tourer . Huge lorries continue to whiz past . Fortunately after 6km a motorway appears which takes them all . We are both soaked to the skin . Not all bad as it’s about 20 C . The procession of walkers continue unabated . There is a quickness in their step I detect . By late lunchtime we are in S de C. We have to walk the last half mile with other walkers . a Galician bagpiper plays in an archway . We both admit to being a bit teary. Last year from St Malo to Nice was different, we didn’t expect to get there . This trip was harder and I guess we expected to get there. Tomorrow we will pick up our ‘ Credencial ‘ complete with all our stamps to show we have done it . I will let Ceri round it all off . She is the true hero in this trip for all sorts of reasons which she may expand on . Oh yes how are we getting home ? Not easy … trains go via Madrid buses won’t take electric batteries. We will hire a car with one way drop off to Santander and then ferry to Portsmouth.
Maybe we will cycle the Rhine next year !!
Ceri: The Rhine? Really? I can’t think past my long glorious hot bath in this beautiful Parador. Our wet bags, clothes and shoes are dangling from every hook type object we can find. I’m warm and comfortable and more relaxed than I ever been in a long while.
Those of you who know about an Oesophagectomy will know how difficult and painful the side effects can occasionally be. I rarely suffered last year cycling to Nice, but this year I’ve had the lot and it’s been tough at times.
We’ve still got a long journey home, but a comfortable one.
I’m looking forward to our home comforts, my own cooking, my own bed which raises up when I need it and seeing friends and family. Just before we left my third grandchild was born and I can’t wait to see her again. Neil and I can chat about cycling the Rhine, (or preferably the Danube!) when that travel bug of mine returns.
We’ve had many wonderful days on this trip. I love cycling with Neil in beautiful places and we will continue for many years to come. But now, like me, my bike is tired and refusing to function properly. Time to rest and reflect.
And here ends our 2024 blog.
Ceri: This has been the least enjoyable day of the whole trip (except my sick days). I was heartened when Neil claimed it was the worst cycle ride of his life!! Mostly because we had to cycle along the hard shoulder of an extremely busy road, and this wasn’t even in error! The rain made it really slippery for Neil on his skinny tires and he told me there were sections where he was really scared. One skid and it could all be over. For me, it was just a ‘grin and bear it’ boring ride. Cold, wet, loud and unpleasant.
The walkers kept mostly to paths through the woods then would emerge to cross our busy road in groups, clad in long ponchos with huge humpbacks or backpacks smothered in brightly coloured rainproof covers. Tour buses whizzed past us carrying their main luggage, alongside
the thundering lorries.
Half way along we spotted a loggers track, so followed it to find the perfect log for a picnic away from the noise. Peace!
It was a short ride but still, seeing our lodgings was a relief. And the best part for me was to discover our room and a bath…. WITH A PLUG! Luxury! So that was me settled for the next hour. We’ve plenty of time to kill.
Most of my evenings have been spent finding accommodation for the next day or so. I read all the reviews! But now I’ve booked everything between here and home! There’s nothing to do except write this blog.
Our journey from Santiago de Compostela to Santander proved to be a bigger problem than anticipated. The train was 12 hours, 2 long trips with a 4 hour wait in the middle. The buses won’t accept electric bikes and we found it incredibly difficult to find a car big enough to carry our bikes. On and on I researched. I can tell you the cubic capacity of most SUVs in Spain!! Finally I found a great big Volvo XC60 with a one way drop off which should do the trick.
So now I’m twiddling my thumbs while Neil enjoys his bath.
Neil: We are in Galicia. Think of a crumpled bit of A4 paper. This describes the ride today. Brakes full on down a steep hill then up the other side. After the exertions of yesterday we are both a bit slower than usual! As we travel towards S de C we pass so many Peregrinos walking. We must have passed 300 in ones, twos and groups . 5km up hill followed by 7km downhill. On one up hill section we meet a Dutch couple who are truly inspiring. He had a spinal infection rendering him partially paralysed. He has a recumbent but tows his wheel chair behind for when he stops . His wife has a big trailer with all sorts of disability gadgets he needs. Yes they have battery power but we are both in awe of what they have accomplished since they left The Hague. Later on we meet a young lady pushing a buggy with a 6 year old also doing the Camino . Stopping for a beer we meet a load of school children who are excitedly chattering away a bit like our youngsters doing 10 tors . It’s the last hilly section today. The economy of this region is dependent on the peregrinos as otherwise there is little else . It reminds Ceri and me of Devon
Ceri: What a great day! Tough though, but sunshine all day. We waited for the temperature to reach 8° before setting off and wound our way upwards from 500m to 1305m, regularly crossing paths with the walkers. It was a long, long slog. Even at the top there were more hills with one reaching 1337m before the long descent. But the views have been spectacular all day and everyone seems to have been buoyed by the sunshine, especially after yesterday’s downpours.
Neil had to push occasionally, it was so so steep and long. We passed a young Cuban couple on e-bikes. The poor girlfriend was in tears with exhaustion so her boyfriend cycled both bikes up: one first, then walk back, then the other etc, while she walked. My heart went out to her as I’ve been in that situation with Neil in the past! But it made me realise I must be fairly fit as she was less than half my age with a light pannier. We can barely lift my panniers!
We stopped at a bar near the top of the main hill and joined a group of really entertaining Irishmen sipping beers, one of whom decided to steal my bike for a laugh. I saw the Cuban girl arrive and gave her a long hug.
On we continued, up and down, to another pub at the highest point. A beer… of course. And I plugged my battery in for a top up, just in case. At the start of our descent, we passed a helicopter evacuation of a hiker who’d had a suspected heart attack. Neil cycled past as he was being carried into the helicopter and said he looked fairly OK. Lots of worried onlookers. Then down and down we coasted, mile after mile with a few cruel uphills towards the end which finished Neil off. Gosh he’s tough. Thank heavens for my e-bike. I didn’t need the extra charge but it was good to know there was plenty left.
When we arrived at our accommodation, we were welcomed by a group of American ladies enjoying a wine at the entrance to our accommodation. I’d chosen a pretty apartment overlooking the river with plenty of bars, and I saw that “I need a beer” look on an exhausted Neil. He’d looked after me the last 2 days, so it was my turn. I left him settling in with the ladies and set off to find a supermarket. Our rather special apartment had a decent kitchen, and it’s relaxing to eat ‘at home’ occasionally. When I returned with my groceries, Neil was surrounded by the group of American ladies which had tripled in size. He was completely recovered and I joined them a while before we all went our own ways. We both love these random meetings.
Neil: Dawn breaks with good English drizzle! It was a long drag through industrial roads to finally leave Ponferrada. As we get closer to S de C we see more and more walkers. While peddling along we pass them. They all wear ponchos which protects their rucksacks but i am not sure I would wish to wear one as I’m sure you must get sweaty in one. This really is the most international of Pilgramages. Most people are solo or in twos usually a couple. As cyclists we pass the walkers regularly. Sometimes we say ‘Buen Camino ‘ it’s a sort of hello really. Lots of films about the Camino. We watched ’ Paths of Life ‘ last night . A lovely film about a French girl walking from Strasbourg to S de C. She introduced herself to walkers and interviewed some. They all had a similar feeling about wanting to switch off from modern life and enjoy the isolation but also the friendship that abounds on the Camino.
As a brief list we have met , French, Irish , Icelanders, Americans ( lots), Canadians , Spanish, Germans, South Koreans, Brazilians , Colombians, Australians , New Zealanders, South Africans, Polish, Chinese, Italian and of course a few Uk too .
Today’s ride highlights would be all Ceri really. She was in the sort of condition as we started that I could easily have given her a week sick note in GP land ! I can only say chapeau a plenty too her. She has plenty of pluck to undertake the ride at all and still not eating. Rain hail wind and hills were the recipe today . Although when the sun came out a bit I managed a little tipple of Vino Tinto . We have risen a couple of hundred metres . A big long hill tomorrow. Hopefully everything will have dried out then
Ceri's Blog with Neil 