Ceri: This has been the most enjoyable day so far. We said farewell to our warm friendly hostess. Her hotel was the only one available on our route, in a tiny village with no shops or restaurants for many mile’s around. Supper last night was delicious, mainly produce from her garden. She must keep her meat and fish in a freezer as this place is so remote. We were so grateful to find this accommodation. The next available hotel is 50 miles away so a long day to come.
We cycled up and up out of her village through wind farms shrouded in mist. Soon we were back up to 1000m altitude. The road was silent and empty for mile after mile. Poor villages came and went with abandoned houses and decaying churches. In the mist it was eery and peaceful. A wonderful ride.
And of course those long straight Roman roads were as far as the eye could see. Privacy for a quick pee stop wasn’t an issue as I could spot a car coming in the far distance from both directions. The road was empty except for flocks of migrating birds swooping around, playing with us, then resuming their travels. Our minds wandered. I imagined Roman centurions leading their armies along miles and miles of scrub, or architects designing motorways using the topography of the landscape as we cycled below one motorway. Neil said he thought all sorts of random thoughts without a care in the world. Thinking of family, friends, enjoying the countryside flying by as we cycled.
We came across a fantastic bar in a medieval village Villadiego, with delicious looking tapas which we bought for our picnic. It was 10.30am and many locals were already enjoying a particular local tipple. Neil’s couldn’t resist. I sipped a little. It was potent, delicious and warming. Even as I type this Neil maintains his navigational skills remained unaffected. I set a course out of the village and he reluctantly followed along that long straight road, maintaining his choice of route would have eventually met mine. Sobriety has its advantages!
We enjoyed the most delicious picnic of our trip in the town square in Melgar Fernamental with the tapas, tomatoes donated by our landlady, avocado and fruit from a market in Poza. And of course, a beer. The joy of the straight Roman roads is that we cover distances at a great rate and we’d cycled 35 miles before lunch.
The afternoon became tough however as the next landscape was barren of life. All we could see from one horizon to the other were bare fields scalped of their hay. Not a car passed us along the vaguely undulated road. It reminded me of the vast American prairies where one could walk for days without seeing a soul. Then finally an oasis of life emerged. Mainly huge hay barns stacked to the gunnels, then a big church and then hotels and restaurants. And tourists! We haven’t seen a tourist in weeks. We hear English spoken for the first time. We’ve arrived on the Camino de Santiago. From now on, every hotel we stay in will have people from all over the world walking the Camino. It’s going to be so different. Exciting days ahead!!
Neil has asked me to add his comments :-
I hope you enjoy our blog. However what it doesn’t say is how gutsy Ceri was today. She has the double whammy of migraine all night (no sleep) and dumping as we set off. Up hill she peddled into the mist . Fighting a headache, exhaustion, sweating and feeling nauseous from a hypo. Gradually both wore off . Chapeau to her and more . Nothing death defying, just sheer Welsh grit got her through . 80kms today as you have read . I am sipping a lovely Rioja at 5 O clock . Leeds are one up against Cardiff. Doesn’t get much better than this
Ceri and Neil's blogs 