Neil: In 814, so the story goes, a Galician shepherd discovered some bones about 20km from Santiago de Compostela. These became the bones of St James and so started the veneration of said bones by pilgrims. Even then it was recognised that whatever the veracity of the find, it would be good for pilgrims to walk to see them . It’s a bit like did Mallory and Irvine climb Everest or Glastonbury Tor and the Isle of Avalon . Maybe there is a need in all of us to make some sort of quest that others do . 

      Today we knew would be tough . Not far to cycle but wall to wall rain . Ceri’s brakes need new hydraulic fluid in and are very weak . With my 2cm slick tyres I am at some risk of falling. My road bike is not a tourer . Huge lorries continue to whiz past . Fortunately after 6km a motorway appears which takes them all . We are both soaked to the skin . Not all bad as it’s about 20 C . The procession of walkers continue unabated . There is a quickness in their step I detect . By late lunchtime we are in S de C. We have to walk the last half mile with other walkers . a Galician bagpiper plays in an archway . We both admit to being a bit teary. Last year from St Malo to Nice was different, we didn’t expect to get there . This trip was harder and I guess we expected to get there. Tomorrow we will pick up our ‘ Credencial ‘ complete with all our stamps to show we have done it . I will let Ceri round it all off . She is the true hero in this trip for all sorts of reasons which she may expand on . Oh yes how are we getting home ? Not easy … trains go via Madrid buses won’t take electric batteries. We will hire a car with one way drop off to Santander and then ferry to Portsmouth.

       Maybe we will cycle the Rhine next year   !!

Ceri: The Rhine? Really? I can’t think past my long glorious hot bath in this beautiful Parador. Our wet bags, clothes and shoes are dangling from every hook type object we can find. I’m warm and comfortable and more relaxed than I ever been in a long while. 

Those of you who know about an Oesophagectomy will know how difficult and painful the side effects can occasionally be. I rarely suffered last year cycling to Nice, but this year I’ve had the lot and it’s been tough at times. 

We’ve still got a long journey home, but a comfortable one. 

I’m looking forward to our home comforts, my own cooking, my own bed which raises up when I need it and seeing friends and family. Just before we left my third grandchild was born and I can’t wait to see her again. Neil and I can chat about cycling the Rhine, (or preferably the Danube!) when that travel bug of mine returns. 

We’ve had many wonderful days on this trip. I love cycling with Neil in beautiful places and we will continue for many years to come. But now, like me, my bike is tired and refusing to function properly. Time to rest and reflect. 

And here ends our 2024 blog.