Ceri: We were sad to leave Leon. There was a calmness about the city, probably because the whole of the centre is pedestrianised – although the bars at night aren’t peaceful! The Spanish have such a vibrancy about them with Camino travelers wandering through. We cycled out past the museum and the adjoining Parador which are beautiful buildings. It’s 13degC and raining as we set out for Astorga but clears. 

As the day progressed, I felt more and more unwell and I was so grateful to check into a welcoming hostel in Astorga. I went straight to bed and stayed there until morning. The hostel provided the most delicious evening meal with Camino walkers sitting around a big table exchanging tales. I’m told Neil kept many entertained with his extraordinary stories while I was either on the loo or in bed upstairs. I missed the food and the fun, but met them all at breakfast. What an interesting group of people. 

Unfortunately next morning I was too weak to cycle, so we booked tickets for the train. Every cloud has a silver lining as we missed hours of torrential rain early morning and used the following sunshine to visit the stunning Bishops Palace in Astorga, designed by Gaudi. I’m in such awe of his creativity. We both are. 

It’s been a beautiful train journey. The landscape has  become much richer and more interesting. The train wound its way through numerous tunnels in and out of the mountains we would have been cycling over. It’s been such a contrast to the plains we’ve cycled across. 

We’re settled in our apartment. I’m resting watching TV/ sleeping and Neil’s been out chemist and grocery shopping. We’ll have a QNI (quiet night in) with me under the care of a wonderful doctor, and hopefully we’ll both be back on our bikes tomorrow. 

Neil: Our first rest day . León was the old capital of Spain before Madrid. A little history….The Moors had conquered all of Spain except a small part of Asturias. From there the reconquista as the Spanish call it saw them gradually evicted from Spain between AD 722 and 1492 . It took a long time ! The apostle James was seen in a vision which became Santiago Matamoros ( St James the Moor-slayer) . This iconic figure is celebrated all along the Camino as the land was cleared . This together with the bones of St James ( more in a few days ) founded the Pilgramage which we are on . Lots to see in León with its cathedral and wonderful stained glass. We spent the morning though in one of Gaudi’s amazing constructions. Such a talented man . His tutor was said to say “ he’d either become a brilliant architect or a madman”.  He was certainly brilliant. 

We can begin to see the end now maybe 8-9 days more . We decide we will stay in a Parador at the end for two nights and then negotiate how to get back to Santander! we have been so lucky with the weather, raining a little today but hey we are not cycling!

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Ceri: Last night we stayed in such a strange hotel on the outskirts of Sahagun. It reminded us of the Jack Nicholson film The Shining. Long empty corridors with no one around. Huge empty banqueting rooms with no sign of staff. When we arrived we stood in the huge space rather bewildered, when suddenly, up pops Manuel from Fawlty Towers, jumping all over the place to welcome us. He had very little English so between us we found a rather strange looking receptionist with staring eyes, who seemed to appear suddenly from a cupboard. Neil reckoned she was the wicked lady in a Bond Film with deathly spikes in her shoes, but actually, she was really nice and helpful. Those 2 were the only staff we encountered during our stay in this enormous hotel. At breakfast, we met 2 other couples who’d made exactly the same comparison with the film. We were all on our way to Santiago and our laughter must have echoed through the vast breakfast room. Manuel (we never got his real name) continued to charge around happy to please everyone. We all adored him. Most of the walking Peligrinos stayed in the centre of town but this was the only hotel room we could find late in the day. We ended up swapping numbers with a lovely New York couple over breakfast. We hope we meet them again, but who knows?

Our road followed the walking path. I knew it was an extremely popular challenge, but seeing so many people striding out was a unique experience. Short, tall, old, young, slim, big, all on their individual journeys. Mostly singles or couples and I’d say 70-80% were our generation from all over the world. Many had strapped knees. Hats off to every single one of them. It’s a tough walk. 

We met a charismatic Brit , probably aged 60ish, walking in bare feet! He entertained us with endless stories. The walkers keep bumping into each other along the way and friendships form. It’s lovely to watch and we’re having a great time meeting them. 

The cycling to Leon was easy, although misty and chilly when we set out. Now we have 2 nights in Leon which appears to be a fascinating city. It will be our first day in 3 weeks in which we haven’t mounted our bikes which are safely locked away. (I’ll probably add to this post later this evening. )

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Neil: Our first day on the Camino proper . The clientele is from all over the World . It’s on the bucket list of many people I think . At breakfast I play at doctors and help a Dutchman with shin splints. They will take a taxi to the next place and get some insoles . 

Here are the statistics from 2023 

• Walking – 404,175 pilgrims

• Bicycling – 22,881 pilgrims

• Blank entry – 5,726 pilgrims

• Horseback – 606 pilgrims

• Sailing – 276 pilgrims

• Wheelchair – 198 pilgrims

Today we started in mist. The cycle route follows the walkers for a few miles. In ones and twos they walk, some have started a long way away like us, some just doing a section at a time. We met two cyclists today an Austrian lady who was travelling quickly and a lovely lady from Utah who was on her own who had hired a bicycle for a few days. She had a terrible pump and poor pressure in her front tyre. So an international group set about helping taking in turns with my mini pump. Two Aussies father and son and a gentleman from China got the required pressure in. She was very grateful. We met her later for lunch on a bench in a small village. We exchanged WhatsApp numbers. I remember from walking the West Highland Way and the Dales Way those lovely conversations that flow easily with people you will probably never meet again. The meseta or plains are a joy to cycle almost no cars with distant vistas . Occasionally a deserted church reminds you that you are treading in the path of Pilgrims that have walked this way since the tenth century. Whether secular or spiritual I don’t think it matters, it’s the journey. I think it’s in the moments of peaceful silence with the hum of a wheel that I feel a real connection with the surroundings . Ceri might be ahead by 200 metres( usually up a hill!) or I get in the big chain wheel and power down a slope . The hills at the moment are all very gradual, the miles roll by . Our legs now are well used to most terrains. We tend to stop for a break every hour or so, a glass of wine or a beer mid afternoon for me is a stimulus. I caught myself thinking this afternoon, should I have a white wine or red or a beer. The first wins and now we are in our village for the night. It looks as if the day is over but one more twist awaits. Ceri tells me our hotel tonight is 6 km out of town. Strange I think as I have seen a sign for a hotel as we come into Sahagun. We duly cycle the distance and turn right into a field ! Seemingly cut and paste into google maps has played a trick on us and we have to walk along a bramble track under a motorway to get back to the hotel I had seen an hour ago. The hotel is a bit like ‘ The Shining’ minus the cold weather! All the hostals were full. We spend an hour booking a few more days worth . The craic is certainly not here ! One of our advantages over the walkers is that we can always go off piste. Egg and chips awaits !

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Ceri: This has been the most enjoyable day so far. We said farewell to our warm friendly hostess. Her hotel was the only one available on our route, in a tiny village with no shops or restaurants for many mile’s around. Supper last night was delicious, mainly produce from her garden. She must keep her meat and fish in a freezer as this place is so remote. We were so grateful to find this accommodation. The next available hotel is 50 miles away so a long day to come.

We cycled up and up out of her village through wind farms shrouded in mist. Soon we were back up to 1000m altitude. The road was silent and empty for mile after mile. Poor villages came and went with abandoned houses and decaying churches. In the mist it was eery and peaceful. A wonderful ride. 

And of course those long straight Roman roads were as far as the eye could see. Privacy for a quick pee stop wasn’t an issue as I could spot a car coming in the far distance from both directions. The road was empty except for flocks of migrating birds swooping around, playing with us, then resuming their travels. Our minds wandered. I imagined Roman centurions leading their armies along miles and miles of scrub,  or architects designing motorways using the topography of the landscape as we cycled below one motorway. Neil said he thought all sorts of random thoughts without a care in the world. Thinking of family, friends, enjoying the countryside flying by as we cycled. 

We came across a fantastic bar in a medieval village Villadiego, with delicious looking tapas which we bought for our picnic. It was 10.30am and many locals were already enjoying a particular local tipple. Neil’s couldn’t resist. I sipped a little. It was potent, delicious and warming. Even as I type this Neil maintains his navigational skills remained unaffected. I set a course out of the village and he reluctantly followed along that long straight road, maintaining his choice of route would have eventually met mine. Sobriety has its advantages!

We enjoyed the most delicious picnic of our trip in the town square in Melgar Fernamental with the tapas, tomatoes donated by our landlady, avocado and fruit from a market in Poza. And of course, a beer. The joy of the straight Roman roads is that we cover distances at a great rate and we’d cycled 35 miles before lunch. 

The afternoon became tough however as the next landscape was barren of life. All we could see from one horizon to the other were bare fields scalped of their hay. Not a car passed us along the vaguely undulated road. It reminded me of the vast American prairies where one could walk for days without seeing a soul. Then finally an oasis of life emerged. Mainly huge hay barns stacked to the gunnels, then a big church and then hotels and restaurants. And tourists! We haven’t seen a tourist in weeks. We hear English spoken for the first time. We’ve arrived on the Camino de Santiago. From now on, every hotel we stay in will have people from all over the world walking the Camino. It’s going to be so different. Exciting days ahead!!

Neil has asked me to add his comments :-

I hope you enjoy our blog. However what it doesn’t say is how gutsy Ceri was today. She has the double whammy of migraine all night (no sleep) and dumping as we set off. Up hill she peddled into the mist . Fighting a headache, exhaustion, sweating and feeling nauseous from a hypo. Gradually both wore off . Chapeau to her and more . Nothing death defying, just sheer Welsh grit got her through . 80kms today as you have read . I am sipping a  lovely Rioja at 5  O clock . Leeds are one up against Cardiff. Doesn’t get much better than this

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Neil: After a lengthy ride yesterday with a punishing finish, I had only one thing in mind a beer in fact I had two, abandoning Ceri ! 

        Today started with a climb up to 1089m. Planning this we thought let’s not go far. This plan worked very well. Breakfast was not provided we have to make up ourselves. We buy milk and use our plastic cups for cereal and use a little element heater in water to make tea. Can’t waste milk so I polished it off! Must have worked well as the 300 metre ascent went well. Poza de La Sal is a fascinating village. As the name suggests it was once under the sea so the whole mountain is full of salt . They pump ordinary water at the top and pick up salt water at the bottom. It’s then dried and sold. I had expected at the top to go down the other side but no onto a plateau. Many many wind turbines. Very easy cycling. Lunch and a snooze and we are soon at our destination. A tiny village, the lady will cook for us. We are making our own Camino but guided by others experience. We have used the book below quite a lot, a hilariously account of 4 people who make lots of mistakes with food and water and probably drink too much. Accordingly we have not really met anyone doing a Camino. Tomorrow we shall be heading towards the main Camino. Not sure how we will feel joining lots of others . Both Ceri and I love not knowing where we are going in terms of scenery and places to stay. We book up a day or two in advance usually

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Today started (rather harshly) with a long, long hill and our day ended with an even longer hill, with more hills along the way, so now it feels far more than 49 miles. The final hill was a real challenge in the heat but with the prize of an absolutely stunning village at the end. We crossed open plains and cycled through quirky tunnels cut through mountains. We looked forward to cycling through ‘Miranda de Ebro’ as it’s such a lovely name, but were disappointed to find it was busy and dense with factories and noisy roads, bearing no resemblance to its beautiful name. At the start of the day I felt a little ominous about the rain clouds over the mountains, but by lunchtime they cleared giving us blue skies over vast plains full of sunflowers as the day heated up. No complaints! And I had a yet another puncture in a rather desolate and probably deprived area. A little old lady walked down the empty street in the distance while Neil fixed my bike so I took a photo. And finally the last long hill brought us to this beautiful ancient village where they’ve made salt since long before Roman times. It’s steeped in history which we’re about to explore. The Romans certainly have left their mark through most of the places we’ve cycled. We’ve encountered so many long straight road which seem to go on forever. I prefer bends, guessing what might lie around the corner! When we reached our destination, Neil was so hot he headed straight to the nearest bar for a beer while I checked the bikes in etc. He absolutely deserved that beer as it was a 7 km steady climb in the heat. Well done Neil. All in all, a good day. 

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Neil: Every day unfolds like no other . Today was no exception as I wheel out the bikes from the back of the hotel …bother …another flat tyre ! Always the back one . Decide to put new tyre on . However dodgy valve ! Put back on old one with patch , all takes over an hour. Following a motorway when Ceri noticed a bulge on tyre . We decide to divert to bike shop in Vitoria . At first he says he is too busy, but relents and fixes it . Just needed more pressure than I could provide with my hand pump . Phew , Actually cycling is really pleasant gradually down hill over the 45 miles . Lots of map debates with software, both Google maps and Outdoor Active have their moments . It feels like the real Spain now with small villages and big skies . We are approaching the Ebro now , Spains longest river .

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Ceri: (rewritten as my previous blog got lost during website problems) Today was our ride up to the Pyrenees. It started well . All uphill, until Google Maps decided to send us along a factory track. The guy at the gate would not let us through and our only option was either to follow the motorway for 1000m or turn back. No way was I going to cycle downhill so we followed the hard shoulder of the motorway for 500m with huge lorries zooming past, until we saw a gap in the railings. We climbed through and followed a vague footpath through brambles for the most part until we were back on a safer road with very scratched ankles! Up and up we cycled around hair pin bends through pretty rural mountain villages. Neil enjoyed a rewarding beer with our picnic at the pub at the top. Then a long whizz down to Altsasu. There were no restaurants open and occasionally, hotels have microwaves, so I’ve mastered the art of micro wave meals: baked potatoes plus whatever we find to add. I have problems eating the fatty Spanish food, so the occasional bland food certainly helps my system. I brought loads of teabags and cups so we often enjoy an English cup of tea as well.

Neil’s wants you to know it was 9km of uphill. (Not bad for a 72 year old!!)

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Neil: Today has been a chapter of accidents but all is well at the end of the day. You can see why the Basques wanted to separate, everywhere is factories and hills with hard working people. This all makes for really unpleasant cycling , joining traffic from left and right, all of it in your face, with sudden short sharp hills. At one stage it looked like we were joining a motorway. Biking software like Komoot or Outdoor active shows the way. I am leading so have to shout over my shoulder to Ceri. We stop at a small shop, I forget to unclip my shoes, smack onto the pavement, people help me up , chain has come off, chain rips the back of my calf. Nothing worse than injured pride and puzzled onlookers. The short hills are extremely steep. Picnic in vibrant town square. Eventually things improve and we follow the valley up towards Tolosa. The Basques have painted out the Spanish signs which adds another stressful dimension! Steadily climbing we reach our destination. We realise we are in Spain as siesta time is upon us. Ceri pens the following addendum!

Ceri: Our hotel has a garage a little way away where we could store our bikes. Getting in was OK as she’d given us a pin to enter and the door rolled up. We left our bikes safely but the pin didn’t work to close the door. We had to press a switch inside, but every time we did this then left the garage, it triggered the door to stop closing and crushing a car. I’ve now started giggling. Neil tried all sorts of ways and speeds between pushing the button and running out but each time he triggered the door to stop moving. I had a few goes too. Laughing more at each failed attempt. We were triggering the beam low down across the entrance. Now imagine the theme tune to Mission Impossible and continue reading. Neil’s decided to try a Tom Cruise approach. (I’m now in absolute hysterics) Surely he wouldn’t!!! But he did!!! He pressed the switch, lay down on the garage floor and rolled and rolled under the beam and onto the street. It worked!!!! He did it!!! The door closed successfully and we laughed all the way back to the hotel. It turned out the lady should have given us a different key to get out. What a day it’s been!!!!

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